How to Grow Parsley
Parsley is a biennial herb (completing its life cycle in two years) typically grown as an annual in the garden. In its first year, it produces an abundant rosette of leaves for harvesting. In its second year, it sends up a flower stalk, sets seed, and dies. For culinary use, most gardeners start fresh plants each year to avoid the second-year bolting that reduces leaf quality.
Two main types are commonly grown: curly parsley (compact, tightly curled leaves, mild flavor, excellent as garnish) and flat-leaf Italian parsley (broader, flat leaves, more robust and aromatic flavor, preferred for cooking). Both have identical growing requirements and are equally easy to cultivate, though Italian flat-leaf is generally considered superior for culinary purposes and has been gaining popularity over the traditional curly type.
Growing Tips
- Always harvest outer stems first, cutting from the base rather than snipping leaf tips. This allows inner stems to continue developing. Never harvest more than 1/3 of the plant at one time, and always leave at least 3–4 stems to continue feeding the roots.
- Soak parsley seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting to break dormancy and dramatically improve germination rate and speed. Parsley seeds contain compounds that inhibit germination — soaking washes these compounds out and can reduce germination time from 21 days to 10–14 days.
- Parsley in containers on a patio or balcony produces excellent results. Use a 10–12 inch pot with good drainage. Move indoors before hard frost for a winter windowsill harvest — parsley is one of the better herbs for extending season indoors.
- Leave one parsley plant to overwinter and bolt in its second spring — the flowers attract parasitic wasps and other beneficial insects. The feathery white flower umbels are ornamentally attractive, and the plant attracts black swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which are worth encouraging even if they damage a few stems.
- Blanch and freeze excess parsley by dipping briefly in boiling water, plunging into ice water, patting dry, and freezing on a sheet pan. Frozen blanched parsley retains color and texture well in cooked applications for 6–12 months.
Companion Planting
Parsley's umbellifer flowers attract parasitic wasps that prey on aphids and caterpillars. As a biennial, second-year parsley flowers very early in spring when few other plants bloom, providing a critical early resource for emerging beneficial insects. The planner helps you find a permanent edge position for parsley where it can self-sow and provide benefits season after season.
FAQ
When should I plant parsley?
Start parsley seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before your last frost date (soak seeds in warm water 24 hours before planting to improve germination). Transplant outdoors 3–4 weeks before your last frost — parsley tolerates frost well. Alternatively, direct-sow outdoors in early spring. In warm climates, fall planting (September–October) provides a long winter and spring harvest season.
Why is my parsley not growing?
Slow growth in parsley is almost always related to temperature or root establishment. Parsley is slow to establish — give it 4–6 weeks before expecting vigorous growth. Cold soil (below 50°F) significantly slows growth. If plants seem stalled after 6 weeks, check for root-bound conditions in containers, nutrient deficiency (pale yellow-green leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency), or waterlogged soil causing root rot.
Does parsley grow back after cutting?
Yes — parsley regrows vigorously from the base after harvesting. Cut outer stems to the base (not just leaf tips) and the plant sends up new stems from the center within 1–2 weeks. Regular harvesting actually stimulates more vigorous production. In its first year, a healthy parsley plant provides 10–20 harvests over the growing season.
Why is my parsley bitter?
Parsley bitterness increases with heat stress, drought, second-year bolting, or harvesting too much at once. Maintain consistent moisture and harvest regularly to keep the plant in active leaf production mode. Second-year parsley (in its bolting year) is markedly more bitter than first-year plants — start fresh plants each year for the mildest flavor.
Is flat-leaf or curly parsley better?
For cooking, flat-leaf (Italian) parsley is widely considered superior — it has a more robust, aromatic flavor and holds up better in cooked dishes. Curly parsley has a milder flavor and attractive texture for garnishing. Both are fully edible and nutritious. Most professional cooks prefer flat-leaf; many home gardeners grow curly for its decorative value. Why not grow both?
Parsley planting guides by state
- Alabama
- Alaska
- Arizona
- Arkansas
- California
- Colorado
- Connecticut
- Delaware
- Florida
- Georgia
- Idaho
- Illinois
- Indiana
- Iowa
- Kansas
- Kentucky
- Louisiana
- Maine
- Maryland
- Massachusetts
- Michigan
- Minnesota
- Mississippi
- Missouri
- Montana
- Nebraska
- Nevada
- New Hampshire
- New Jersey
- New Mexico
- New York
- North Carolina
- North Dakota
- Ohio
- Oklahoma
- Oregon
- Pennsylvania
- Rhode Island
- South Carolina
- South Dakota
- Tennessee
- Texas
- Utah
- Vermont
- Virginia
- Washington
- West Virginia
- Wisconsin
- Wyoming